Our first day in Cebu had been a series of near misses when it came to food, so we made it our mission to redeem our taste buds on Day 2.

After a morning visit to a museum, we set out on a quest for Esmen Carinderia, a humble eatery tucked away on Rallos Street, known for its famed fish tinola. I had read about it in multiple blogs, and knew it wouldn’t be for everyone—especially those who aren’t keen on dining in an open-air, no-frills setup.

Finding the carinderia proved to be a challenge. We had unknowingly walked past it, only realizing our mistake when we doubled back and spotted groups of people dining outside. A tarpaulin sign finally confirmed that we were in the right place. The eatery was bustling before lunch time, with only a few seats available. It was clear this place was a local favorite.

Hubby ordered two bowls of fish soup. At first glance, they looked identical—both featuring medium servings of fish heads submerged in steaming broth. But as soon as I took a sip, I understood the difference. One was made with porcupine fish, its broth rich and flavorful, the meat unbelievably tender. The other had a unique taste, distinct but just as satisfying. Three large kawa (woks) stood at the front, each brimming with a different variety of broth, ladled out according to the customer’s order.

One thing that stood out was their attentiveness. The staff quickly offers a refill of the hot, comforting broth whenever a bowl was nearing empty—a heartwarming gesture that added to the experience.

Noticing that many customers were ordering a small plate of kilawin, I decided to try one myself. It was unlike the kilawin I had in Davao back in 2023. This version had chopped white onions and tomatoes, but no trace of the usual calamansi or vinegar. Instead, it had a distinct fermented taste—almost like tuba (palm wine). The fish used in the dish was porcupine fish as well, which added to its unique flavor profile.

For two bowls of fish head soup, a small plate of kilawin, one order each of corn rice and regular rice, plus two bottles of soda, our total bill came to just around ₱467—a great deal for such a satisfying meal. More than the price, though, it was the warm service and the honest, comforting flavors that made this dining experience memorable.